Method for making slip-lasted footwear



Oct. 1l, 1949. H. w. RQLLMAN ET AL. 2,484,743

METHOD FOR MAKING SLIP-LASTED FOOTWEAR Filed April 2, 1946 2Shee'tS-Sheet l 57 @M55 q/Zwzan/ HTTORN E YS Qct. ll, 1949. H. w.ROLLMAN ET Al. 2,484,743

METHOD Fon MAKING SLIP-LASTED FoQTwEAR Filed April 2, 1946 2Sheets-Sheet 2 @ff 4/ ga 4Z 1/ f 7 /s 55 E INVENTORS /finz Ma/111mmEines! lallfffmn/ ATTORNEYS Patented Oct. 11, 1949 METHOD FOR MAKINGSLIP-LASTED FOO TWE-AR Heinz W. Rollman, Waynesville, N. C., and ErnestE. Rollman, Los Angeles, Calif.

Application April 2, 1946, .Serial No. 658,998

7 Claims.

This invention relates to improvements in *l method for makingslip-lasted footwear, and has for its principal object to provide animproved,I resilient counter reinforcement therefor.

In the slip-lasted type of shoe, the body thereof is for the most partmanufactured without the use of a last, being pre-formed of materialpreviously cut to size and stitched together by conventional sewingmachine operations, the last being employed as a support, rather than asa forming member, for applying the platform and sole to the inner soleor sock lining and for drawing the wrapper over the platform member andsecuring it thereto. In this type of shoe it is known to employ at theheel region around the back of the shoe a stiff or rigid counter which,while satisfactory to a certain degree, would be more suitable were thecounter better conformed to the shape of the wearers heel.

Accordingly, another object of the invention is to provide a moldablecounter that is conformable in contour with the wearers heel.

Still another object of the invention is to provide a thermo-settingcounter which can be vulcanized to the upper more in conformity with thecontour of the wearers heel.

It is necessary, insofar as applicant is aware, in the manufacture ofslip-lasted shoes of the closed-toe type, to form the shape of the toein the upper by providing a seam longitudinally along the upper toeportion. This seam, in some instances, detracts from the appearance ofthe shoe and, accordingly, it is a further object of the vinvention toprovide a seamless closed-toe in a slip-lasted shoe.

With the above objects Ain view, one embodiment of the inventiondiscloses a closed-toe shoe of the slip-lasted type in which the heeland toe portions of the upper are each reinforced with a thermo-settingelement, which is initially stitched to the upper and sock lining, thepartially completed shoe then being placed on an adjustable last, whichis adapted to heat or vulcanize the elements in conformity with theoutline of the toe and heel portions of the last, the thermal operationat the same time also removing the stretch in the upper.

The invention may be more readily understood by reference to thefollowing detailed description in connection with the accompanyingdrawings in which:

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of an inner sole or sock lining;

Fig. 2 is a perspective View of an upper;

Fig. 3 is a perspective view of a iat, thermosetting plastic elementprior to attachment to the toe cap of the shoe;

Fig. 4 is a perspective view of a flat, thermosetting plastic counterprior to attachment to the heel portion of the shoe;

Fig. 5 is a sectional View taken along lines 5-5 of the thermo-settingplastic counter of Fig. 4;

Fig. 6 is a perspective view of front and rear platform cover stripsshown in overlapping relationship at the ends thereof and as viewed fromthe sole side of the shoe;

Fig. 7 is a longitudinal sectional view showing the `members of Figs. 1,2, 3, and 4 in their assembled and stitched relationship;

Fig. 8 is a sectional view of the rear portion of Fig. 7 showing therear cover strip stitched to the assemblage;

Fig. 9 is a sectional view of the heel portion of the shoe taken alongline 9 9 of Fig. 8;

Fig. l0 is a sectional view of the toe portion taken along line Ill-I0of Fig. '7;

Fig. 11 is a view, partially in section, showing the members of Figs. 1,2, 3, 4, and 6 in assembled and attached relationship;

Fig. 12 is a side view of the shoe, which is shown mounted upon anadjustable last and which illustrates the shoe after the intermediatesole or platform member and intermediate heel have been added;

Fig. 13 is a sectional View taken along line I3- I3 of Fig. 12illustrating one phase of the manufacturing operation after the coverstrips of Fig. 6 have been drawn about the edges and secured to themargin of the platform and intermediate heel; v

Fig. 14 is a side view further illustrating the arrangement shown inFig. 13;

Fig. 15 is a bottom plan view showing the platform member andintermediate heel with the cover strips drawn about the edges andsecured to the margins thereof.

Referring now to the drawings, there is shown in Fig. 1 an inner sole orsock lining 3B consisting of a properly-shaped piece of thin, pliablefabric, or any other suitable material, upon which is superposed anupper 3l, the material of which is cut and fabricated in accordance withwellknown principles in the shape shown in Fig. 2.

'The upper 3l comprises a toe portion 32, preferably of the closed-toetype, and a back or heel portion 33, the open bottom edge of the upperbeing complementary with the outline of the inner Asole 3i). To preservethe outline or shape of the toe cap and to avoid the necessity of theconventional longitudinal seam, a resilient member 34 (Fig. 3) is addedin a manner to be described hereinafter, while the heel portion 33 isreinforced by a resilient counter element 35 (Fig. 4). As shownsectionally in Fig. 5, the resilient counter 35, as well as theresilient toe element 34. comprises a fabric 36 secured, in any suitablemanner, to a thermo-setting element 3l, as by application of heatthereto. The element 3l may consist of calendered rubber, vulcanized tothe fabric 36. It is desirable to use a resilient material which mayalso be vulcanized and which is adapted, in the vulcanizing process, tobe molded to conform with any particular shape and, after the moldingoperation, provide at the same time a resilient or flexible reinforcingmember.

As shown particularly in Fig. 7, the ends 38 and 39 of the resilientelements 34 and 35, respectively, are skived to provide a smootherwearing surface at their points of engagement with the upper 3|. Theskived portion 39 of the counter 35 is rst stitched to the upper 3| toprovide the above-mentioned smooth surface at the joint. The inner soleor sock lining 30 is next stitched, preferably in one operation of asewing machine to the resilient counter 35 and upper 3| at the heel, andthence stitched to the resilient toe element 34 and upper 3| at the toeportion (Fig. 10) the portion intermediate the toe cap and heelconsisting merely of the upper 3| sewed to the will' be further notedthat the resilient elements v 34 and 35 are, in their initial state, cutout of flat pieces of material and are then forced into position duringthe stitching operations, the free or intermediate portions thereofassuming an arbitrary contour or bulge not necessarily that of the shapeof the upper 3| or wearers heel.

It is, of course, understood that the edge 39 of the counter 35 could besealed to the upper 3| by say, a short application (two seconds) of heatunder slight pressure, instead of the stitching operation.

The next step, as shown in Figs. 8 and 9, comprises adding a wrapper orplatform covering strip 4| for the heel portion of the shoe, whichextends from one side near the shank, around the back of the shoe, andthence to a corresponding point opposite the beginning. This wrapper 4l,which has its outer or finished surface disposed inwardly to face theinter-surface ofthe upper 3|, is secured by a second stitch 42, whichcombines the sock lining 30, counter 35, and upper 3| in one assembly. Afront wrapper or platform covering strip 43 is next added (see Fig. 11)and is secured by a stitch 44 to the assembly comprising resilientelement 34 and upper 3|. As shown in Figs. 11 and 12, the ends of thewrapper 43 overlap the ends of the wrapper 4|. While separate stitchesmay be employed in securing the two wrappers to the body of the shoe, itmay be preferable to secure one portion of the rear wrapper 4| and then,by a separate stitch, entirely secure both wrappers in one stitchingoperation.

It is thus seen that up to and including the preceding step in themanufacture of "sliplasted shoes, the shape and size of the shoe ispredetermined particularly by the size and shape of the sock lining,upper, counter, etc., which have been prepared on the conventionalsewing machine. No last is, therefore, necessary to determine size ofthe shoe in this method of fabrication.

In order to add the remaining elements to the shoe body and tofacilitate the further operations, the assemblage in Fig. 11 is thenplaced upon a last 45. This last 46, as will be described hereinafter ingreater detail, is of an adjustable type to facilitate placing theassemblage there over without unduly stretching the component parts,particularly the upper 3|. Heretofore, with an integral last ofpredetermined size, it has been customary to stretch the upper 3| andother component parts thereover with consequent harmful results.Accordingly, the last 4B is first reduced in length, the shoe assemblyfitted thereover, and the last expanded to its normal length, asdetermined by the size of shoe being manufactured.

After the assemblage has been placed on the above-mentioned adjustablelast 46, a platform element 41 of any suitable material, such as felt orthe like, is suitably secured to the outer side of the sock lining 30.The platform 41 preferably conforms with the size and shape of the socklining 30. Superposed upon the platform 41, extending from the back andending approximately at the shank of the shoe, is an intermediatetapered heel member 48, preferably of light and inexpensive material,such as wood, which is adhesively secured to the platform member 41. Inthe next step, the wrapper elements 4I and 43 are drawn tightly over thesides 0f the platform 41 and intermediate heel 48, respectively, and thefree ends thereof are then adhesively secured to margins of theplatforms 41 and heel 48, resulting in the arrangement shown in Figs.13, 14, and 15.

Returning now to the resilient or thermo-setting elements 34 and 35, thenext step is preferably to integrate or mold these elements to the upper3| in conformity with the shape or contour of the last, the toe and heelportions of which conform with that of the wearer. This is done byheating the last in any suitable manner, as will be explainedhereinafter, to a predetermined temperature of approximately 250 to 300F. This temperature, which is substantially lower than the vulcanizingtemperature normally employed in practice, is particularly adapted formolding the thermo-setting material to the shape and contour of the last46. In other words, the material, after having been heated and molded tothe contour of the last, will provide a resilient reinforcing elementfor supporting the upper at both the toe and heel portions. At the sametime the stretching characteristic of the upper 3| is removed, i. e. thematerial is shrunk, during the heating operation. Explained otherwise,the combination of the heat with the stretch produces a blocking effect,similar to that found in hat blocking.

While the above description pertains to that of a closed-toe type ofslip-lasted shoe, it is, of course, understood that in the open-toe typeof slip-lasted shoe the resilient element 34 would not be required,resilient counter 35 being only employed. It is thus seen that use of aresilient counter provides an improved support for the heel portion ofthe shoe, while the resilient reinforcement for the toe cap eliminatesthe longitudinal seam heretofore required.

Thus, it will be apparent that among others the objects of theinvention, as especially aforementioned, are achieved. Obviously,changes in the fabrication of the shoe and in the construction andrearrangement of the parts of the shoe last might be resorted to withoutdeparting from the spirit of the invention, as defined by the claims.For example, a pocket could be provided in the heel portion of the upperfor the resilient counter stiffener by stitching the upper edge of aleather counter, slightly larger than the resilient counter stiffener,to the upper and then slipping in from the bottom a resilient countedstiifener, after which the upper is attached to the sock lining. In thiscase, the resilient counter does not require the textile reinforcement.

What is claimed is:

1. The method of manufacturing a slip-lasted shoe having a closed-toewhich comprises the steps of sewing the upper portion of thethermosetting counter of vulcanizable material to the rear portion of anupper, sewing to the margin of an inner sole the lower edges of theupper, a toe-cap reinforcing element of thermo-setting vulcanizablematerial, and the thermo-setting counter, thereafter mounting theassembly upon an adjustable last and expanding the last and impartingheat through said last to the assembly, whereby said thermo-settingreinforcing element and counter are vulcanized to the upper and wherebythe stretch in said upper is removed.

2. The method of manufacturing a slip-lasted shoe which comprisesproviding an upper, an inner sole, and a resilient counter ofvulcanizable material; sewing the lower edges of the upper and counterto a margin of the inner sole; stitching a platform wrapper around thepreviously sewed stitch; placing the above assembly over a last, whichis capable of imparting heat to the assembly; securing a platform to theouter surface of the inner sole; drawing the wrapper over the platform,securing the edges of the wrapper to the platform, and vulcanizing thecounter to the upper.

3. The method of manufacturing a slip-lasted shoe which comprisesproviding an upper', an inner sole, and a resilient counter ofvulcanizable material; sewing the lower edges of the upper and counterto a margin of the inner sole; stitching a platform wrapper around thelower portion of the upper; placing the above assembly over a last,which is capable of imparting heat to the assembly; adhesively securinga platform to the outer surface of the inner sole; adhesively securingan intermediate heel to the platform, drawing the wrapper over theplatform and heel, securing the edges thereof to the platform and heelmargins, and vulcanizing the counter to the upper.

4. The method of manufacturing a slip-lasted shoe of the closed-toe typewhich comprises the steps of Stitching to an inner sole the lower edgesof an upper, a thermo-setting counter of vulcanizable material for theheel portion, and a thermosetting reinforcing element of vulcanizablematerial for the toe cap; stitching a platform Wrapper to and completelyaround the lower edge of the upper, with the outer face of said wrappercontacting the outer face of said upper; mounting the above assembly ona last, which is adapted to apply heat thereto; applying heat to thethermo-setting counter and element until they have been vulcanized tothe upper; securing a platform to the bottom surface of said inner sole;drawing the platform wrapper tightly about the edges of said platformand adhesively securing them thereto; and thereafter securing sole andheel members in underlying relation to the platform.

5. The method of manufacturing a slip-lasted shoe of the closed-toe typewhich comprises the steps of stitching the upper portion of athermosetting counter of vulcanizable material to an upper; stitching toan inner sole the lower edges of the upper, the thermo-setting counter,and a thermo-setting plastic reinforcing element of vulcanizablematerial for the toe cap; stitching platform wrapper portions to thelower edge of the upper, with the outer face of Said wrapper portionscontacting the outer face of said upper; mounting the above assembly onan adjustable last, which is adapted to apply heat thereto; applyingheat to the thermo-setting counter and element until they have beenvulcanized to the upper; adhesively securing a platform to the bottomsurface of said inner sole; adhesively securing an intermediate heel tothe platform; drawing the platform wrapper portion about the edgesof'said platform and heel and adhesivelxT securing them thereto; andthereafter securing sole and heel members in underlying relation to theplatform and intermediate heel.

6. The method of manufacturing a slip-lasted shoe comprising the stepsof stitching associated edges of an inner sole, an upper, and a counterof thermo-setting vulcanizable material together to form the body of ashoe, stitching a wrapper to said upper and inner sole, placing saidshoe body upon a longitudinally adjustable last, which is rst shortenedand then set to the proper size in order to prevent undue stretching ofthe body, adhesively securing a platform member to the outer surface ofsaid inner sole, securing an intermediate heel member to said platform,drawing said wrapper over the edges of said platform and heel member andadhesively securing the free edges thereof to the margins of theplatform and heel member, applying heat to the counter for vulcanizingit to the upper, thereby providing a resilient reinforcement conformingin contour with the last, and thereafter applying a sole and heel to theplatform and intermediate heel member.

7. The method of manufacturing a slip-lasted shoe which comprisesproviding an upper, an inner sole, and a resilient counter ofvulcanizable material; sewing the lower edges of the upper and thereinforcing member to a margin of the inner sole; stitching a platformwrapper around the previously sewed stitch; placing the above assemblyover a last, which is capable of imparting heat to the assembly;securing a platform to the outer surface of the inner sole; drawing thewrapper over the platform, securing the edges of the wrapper to theplatform, and vulcanizing the reinforcing member to the upper.

HEINZ W. ROLLMAN. ERNEST E. ROLLMAN.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 939,212 Buch Nov. 9, 19091,788,389 Garrett Jan. 13, 1931 1,823,232 Beckwith Sept. 15, 19312,215,924 Grundman Sept. 24, 1940 2,354,797 Cocozella Aug. 1, 19442,370,502 Stratton Feb. 27, 1945 2,394,707 Maling Feb. 12, 19462,402,727 Bonyhady June 25, 1946 2,404,586 Maling July 23, 19462,406,738 Brophy Sept. 3, 1946 2,414,104 Kamborian Jan. 14, 1947

